Cheese, a culinary staple enjoyed worldwide, comes in a dazzling array of textures, flavors, and appearances. Among the most recognizable and intriguing varieties is Swiss cheese, with its characteristic holes, often referred to as “eyes.” But what exactly causes these distinctive apertures? The answer, it turns out, is a fascinating journey into the world of microbiology, chemistry, and the art of cheesemaking.
The Propionibacterium Shermanii Story: The Original Explanation
For decades, the prevailing explanation for the holes in Swiss cheese centered around a specific type of bacteria: Propionibacterium shermanii. This bacterium, naturally present in milk, plays a vital role in the fermentation process of Swiss cheese production.
During fermentation, Propionibacterium shermanii consumes lactic acid, a byproduct of the initial lactose fermentation performed by other bacteria. As it feeds on lactic acid, it produces three primary byproducts: propionic acid, acetic acid, and, crucially, carbon dioxide (CO2).
Propionic acid is what gives Swiss cheese its characteristic nutty and slightly tangy flavor. Acetic acid contributes to the overall flavor profile as well. However, it’s the carbon dioxide that’s responsible for the iconic holes.
As the cheese matures, the carbon dioxide gas accumulates in small pockets within the cheese matrix. Because the cheese is still pliable during this stage, the gas pockets expand, forming the round or oval holes that define Swiss cheese. The size and number of holes depend on several factors, including the amount of Propionibacterium shermanii present, the temperature of maturation, and the firmness of the cheese.
The higher the concentration of Propionibacterium shermanii, the more carbon dioxide is produced, potentially leading to larger and more numerous holes. Temperature also plays a key role. Warmer temperatures accelerate the bacterial activity, resulting in increased gas production. The firmness of the cheese curds also matters; softer curds are more easily expanded by the gas, while firmer curds may result in smaller or fewer holes.
Beyond Bacteria: The Discovery of Hay Particles
While Propionibacterium shermanii’s role is undeniable, recent research has unveiled a more complex and nuanced understanding of hole formation in Swiss cheese. In 2015, scientists at Agroscope, a Swiss agricultural research institute, made a groundbreaking discovery: microscopic hay particles play a significant role in the formation of the holes.
Their research revealed that these tiny hay particles, unintentionally introduced into the milk during the milking process, act as nucleation points for carbon dioxide bubbles. These particles create weak spots in the cheese matrix, providing starting points where the gas can accumulate and expand.
Before the advent of modern, hygienic milking practices, small amounts of hay dust were almost unavoidable in milk production. Traditional milking methods, where cows were kept in close proximity to hay and straw, increased the likelihood of these particles contaminating the milk.
The introduction of closed milking systems and improved hygiene standards in the late 20th and early 21st centuries inadvertently led to a decrease in the number of hay particles in milk. This, in turn, resulted in a gradual reduction in the size and number of holes in Swiss cheese. This phenomenon led cheesemakers to initially believe that Propionibacterium shermanii was solely responsible, but now it is clear hay particles help form holes, too.
The Cheesemaking Process and Its Influence
The cheesemaking process itself significantly influences the formation of holes. Several factors, from the initial milk quality to the final aging process, can impact the size, number, and distribution of the holes.
Milk Quality and Treatment
The quality of the milk is paramount. High-quality milk, free from contaminants and with a consistent composition, is essential for consistent cheese production. Pasteurization, a heat treatment process, is often used to kill harmful bacteria in milk. However, excessive pasteurization can denature proteins and affect the cheese’s texture, potentially impacting hole formation.
Curd Formation and Cutting
After the milk is treated, rennet is added to coagulate the milk and form curds. The size and firmness of the curds directly impact the cheese’s texture and ability to form holes. Larger, softer curds tend to produce cheeses with more and larger holes, while smaller, firmer curds result in denser cheeses with fewer or smaller holes. Cutting the curds into smaller pieces helps to release whey (the liquid portion of milk) and control moisture content.
Pressing and Salting
Once the curds have reached the desired consistency, they are pressed to remove excess whey and consolidate the cheese mass. The amount of pressure applied influences the cheese’s density and, consequently, the size and number of holes. Salting is crucial for flavor development and inhibiting unwanted bacterial growth. Salt also helps to draw out moisture from the cheese, further affecting its texture.
Maturation and Aging
The maturation process is where the magic truly happens. During this stage, the cheese is stored in a controlled environment with specific temperature and humidity levels. These conditions promote the growth of Propionibacterium shermanii and other beneficial bacteria. As the bacteria consume lactic acid and produce carbon dioxide, the holes begin to form. The duration of aging significantly impacts the flavor and texture of the cheese. Longer aging periods typically result in more pronounced flavors and larger holes.
Variations in Hole Formation: Emmental, Gruyère, and Other Swiss-Style Cheeses
It’s important to note that not all Swiss-style cheeses have the same size, number, or distribution of holes. Different cheesemaking techniques and bacterial cultures result in distinct variations.
Emmental, perhaps the most well-known Swiss cheese, is characterized by its large, prominent holes. This is due to a combination of factors, including the use of specific Propionibacterium shermanii strains and a relatively warm maturation process.
Gruyère, another popular Swiss cheese, typically has smaller and fewer holes compared to Emmental. This is partly due to a different cheesemaking process, which involves firmer curds and a slightly cooler maturation temperature. Gruyère is also known for its complex flavor profile, which is influenced by the specific blend of bacterial cultures used.
Other Swiss-style cheeses, such as Jarlsberg and Appenzeller, have their own unique characteristics in terms of hole formation. These variations are a result of specific regional cheesemaking traditions and the use of different bacterial cultures.
The Future of Swiss Cheese and Hole Formation
The ongoing research into the factors that influence hole formation in Swiss cheese is not just an academic pursuit. It has practical implications for the cheese industry. Cheesemakers are constantly striving to optimize their processes to produce cheeses with consistent quality and desirable characteristics.
Understanding the role of hay particles, in addition to Propionibacterium shermanii, allows cheesemakers to fine-tune their production methods. They can control the level of hay particles in milk through improved hygiene practices, while also carefully managing the bacterial cultures and maturation conditions to achieve the desired hole formation.
The future of Swiss cheese likely involves a combination of traditional techniques and modern technology. Cheesemakers will continue to rely on their expertise and experience to craft high-quality cheeses, while also leveraging scientific knowledge to optimize their processes and meet consumer demands.
Consumers appreciate the distinctive appearance and texture of Swiss cheese. The holes are not just a visual feature; they contribute to the cheese’s overall mouthfeel and eating experience. As cheesemakers continue to refine their craft, we can expect to see a diverse range of Swiss-style cheeses with varying hole sizes, shapes, and distributions, each with its own unique flavor profile and character.
Why does Swiss cheese have holes, and what are they called?
Swiss cheese is characterized by the presence of holes, which are technically referred to as “eyes.” These eyes are not naturally occurring imperfections but are a deliberate result of the cheese-making process, specifically the activity of certain bacteria. The size, shape, and distribution of these eyes are indicators of the cheese’s quality and the success of the fermentation process.
The development of eyes in Swiss cheese is primarily due to the bacterium Propionibacterium freudenreichii. This bacterium consumes lactic acid, a byproduct of other bacteria involved in the initial fermentation, and produces carbon dioxide gas. This gas collects in pockets within the cheese curd as it ages, ultimately forming the characteristic holes.
What role does bacteria play in the formation of Swiss cheese eyes?
The bacteria, primarily Propionibacterium freudenreichii, are crucial for the formation of the eyes in Swiss cheese. They consume lactic acid, a metabolic byproduct created by other bacteria introduced earlier in the cheese-making process, such as Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus helveticus. Without the presence of these bacteria and their consumption of lactic acid, the eyes would not form.
The unique metabolic process of Propionibacterium freudenreichii results in the production of carbon dioxide gas. As the cheese ages and ripens, this gas becomes trapped within the semi-solid cheese matrix, forming bubbles. Over time, these bubbles expand and create the distinctive round or oval-shaped holes that define Swiss cheese.
Are the holes in Swiss cheese always the same size and shape?
The size and shape of the holes, or “eyes,” in Swiss cheese can vary. Several factors influence these characteristics, including the specific strain of bacteria used, the temperature during fermentation, and the pressure applied during aging. A skilled cheesemaker carefully controls these factors to achieve the desired eye formation.
Larger eyes generally indicate a warmer fermentation temperature, which encourages more rapid bacterial activity and gas production. Smaller, more irregularly shaped eyes might suggest issues with the bacterial culture or inconsistencies in temperature control. Therefore, cheesemakers aim for consistency to produce the best-quality Swiss cheese with uniform eye formation.
Is Swiss cheese the only type of cheese with holes?
While Swiss cheese is famous for its characteristic eyes, it is not the only type of cheese with holes. Other cheeses, like Jarlsberg from Norway and some Goudas, also feature similar eye formations. The presence and characteristics of these eyes are determined by the cheese-making process and the specific bacteria cultures used.
The key difference lies in the prominence and consistency of the eyes. Swiss cheese typically has larger and more uniformly distributed eyes than other cheeses. Different bacteria strains and variations in the production process result in cheeses with smaller, fewer, or even absent eyes, distinguishing them from the classic appearance of Swiss cheese.
Can the absence of holes affect the taste or quality of Swiss cheese?
The presence and quality of the eyes in Swiss cheese can indeed influence both its taste and overall quality. While not directly responsible for the primary flavor profile, the bacterial activity that creates the eyes contributes to subtle flavor nuances and textural qualities. Cheese without proper eye formation might be considered less desirable.
Specifically, the Propionibacterium freudenreichii also produces propionic acid and acetic acid in addition to carbon dioxide. These compounds contribute to the nutty, slightly sweet, and tangy flavors often associated with Swiss cheese. A lack of proper fermentation, leading to fewer or no eyes, may result in a cheese that is less flavorful and lacks the desired texture.
What happened in 2015 that changed our understanding of Swiss cheese hole formation?
In 2015, researchers at Agroscope, a Swiss agricultural research institute, made a significant discovery that refined the understanding of Swiss cheese eye formation. While the role of Propionibacterium freudenreichii was already known, this research identified microscopic hay particles as crucial nucleation sites for carbon dioxide bubble formation.
The study found that small amounts of hay dust, originating from traditional milk production practices, provided a surface for the carbon dioxide bubbles to initially form and expand. This finding challenged the previous assumption that gas diffused directly into the cheese matrix, showing that microparticles acted as essential catalysts for the eye-forming process.
How does modern cheesemaking differ from traditional methods, and how does this affect hole formation?
Modern cheesemaking often involves more controlled and sanitized environments compared to traditional methods. This can affect the formation of eyes in Swiss cheese due to the reduced presence of the microparticles that were found to be crucial for hole development. While sanitation is important for food safety, it also inadvertently removes factors that contribute to the traditional characteristics of Swiss cheese.
To compensate for the cleaner environment, cheesemakers now often add specific cultures and may also introduce microparticles, such as plant-based powders, to encourage proper eye formation. These adjustments allow for consistent production of Swiss cheese with the desired texture and flavor profiles, despite the changes in production techniques.

Alden Pierce is a passionate home cook and the creator of Cooking Again. He loves sharing easy recipes, practical cooking tips, and honest kitchen gear reviews to help others enjoy cooking with confidence and creativity. When he’s not in the kitchen, Alden enjoys exploring new cuisines and finding inspiration in everyday meals.