The Reuben sandwich. Just the name conjures up images of perfectly grilled rye bread, layered with savory corned beef, tangy sauerkraut, creamy Swiss cheese, and that signature Russian (or Thousand Island) dressing. It’s a culinary classic, a deli staple, and a comfort food icon. But how did this seemingly simple sandwich earn its distinctive name? The answer, like the sandwich itself, is a bit complex and layered, involving competing claims, regional pride, and a dash of culinary legend.
The Two Main Claimants: New York vs. Nebraska
While the exact genesis of the Reuben remains a subject of debate, two primary stories dominate the narrative. One hails from New York City, specifically Reuben’s Delicatessen, while the other originates in Omaha, Nebraska, attributing the sandwich to Reuben Kulakofsky (often spelled Kulakofsky). Both stories offer compelling details and have ardent supporters, making it challenging to definitively declare one as the absolute truth. Let’s delve into each account.
Reuben’s Delicatessen: The Big Apple’s Boast
According to this version, the Reuben sandwich was born in the bustling kitchen of Reuben’s Delicatessen in New York City, sometime around 1914. Founded by Arnold Reuben, the deli was a popular haunt for Broadway stars and other prominent figures. As the story goes, a chorus girl, Marjorie Rambeau, frequently visited the deli after late-night performances. One evening, she reportedly requested a sandwich with specific ingredients. Arnold Reuben, ever the accommodating host, whipped up a concoction of ham, Swiss cheese, turkey, and coleslaw on rye bread. He called it the “Reuben Special” in her honor.
Over time, the recipe evolved. Ham and turkey were replaced with the more robust corned beef and sauerkraut, and coleslaw gave way to Russian dressing. This modified version, still bearing the “Reuben Special” moniker, became increasingly popular. Some argue that the absence of sauerkraut and Russian dressing in the original Rambeau version disqualifies it as the true Reuben origin, but supporters maintain that it was the foundation upon which the iconic sandwich was built.
Blackstone Hotel, Omaha: The Midwestern Contender
The Nebraska narrative places the Reuben’s creation at the Blackstone Hotel in Omaha, during a weekly poker game held sometime between 1920 and 1935. Reuben Kulakofsky, a Lithuanian-born grocer, was one of the regular players. According to this account, Kulakofsky requested a sandwich featuring corned beef and sauerkraut. Bernard Schimmel, the hotel’s chef, obliged, combining these ingredients with Swiss cheese and Russian dressing on rye bread, then grilling it to perfection.
Impressed by the creation, the other poker players reportedly began requesting the “Reuben’s sandwich.” Schimmel, recognizing its potential, added it to the Blackstone Hotel’s menu, further solidifying Kulakofsky’s claim as the sandwich’s namesake. While solid evidence beyond anecdotal stories and family lore is scarce, the Omaha version has garnered significant support, particularly within the Midwest. The Blackstone Hotel itself played a key role in promoting this narrative, solidifying its place in Reuben lore.
Dissecting the Evidence: Separating Fact from Fiction
Determining the definitive origin of the Reuben is difficult due to conflicting accounts and limited documented evidence. Both stories rely heavily on anecdotal evidence and oral history, making them challenging to verify definitively.
Examining the New York Claim
The New York version benefits from its association with a well-established deli. Reuben’s Delicatessen was a real place, known for its innovative sandwiches and celebrity clientele. However, concrete documentation, such as original menus or newspaper articles explicitly mentioning the “Reuben Special” with corned beef and sauerkraut in the early years, is lacking.
Further complicating matters is the evolution of the “Reuben Special” recipe. The reported original ingredients differ significantly from the sandwich we know as the Reuben today. This raises questions about whether the “Reuben Special” was simply a precursor to the modern Reuben, or an entirely different sandwich altogether.
Analyzing the Nebraska Account
The Omaha story hinges on Reuben Kulakofsky’s request and Bernard Schimmel’s culinary skills. While the Blackstone Hotel did exist, and the poker game is plausible, verifying these details decades later is difficult. Much of the support for this claim comes from family members and local historians, relying on oral tradition passed down through generations.
Furthermore, the lack of contemporary documentation, such as newspaper clippings or hotel menus listing “Reuben’s sandwich,” makes it hard to definitively prove that Kulakofsky’s request led to the creation of the sandwich and its subsequent popularity. The name association is powerful, but proof remains elusive.
The Role of Regional Bias and Marketing
It’s crucial to consider the role of regional bias and marketing in shaping the narrative. Both New York and Nebraska have a vested interest in claiming ownership of the Reuben. New York City, a culinary epicenter, understandably wants to add another iconic dish to its repertoire. Similarly, Omaha, a city often overshadowed by its larger neighbors, sees the Reuben as a source of local pride and a way to boost its culinary reputation.
Restaurants and hotels associated with either story have actively promoted their connection to the Reuben, further solidifying their place in the sandwich’s history. This can blur the lines between historical fact and promotional spin. The Blackstone Hotel actively promoted their connection to the Reuben sandwich until its closure, solidifying the Omaha narrative.
Beyond the Main Contenders: Other Possible Influences
While the New York and Nebraska stories dominate the Reuben narrative, it’s possible that other culinary influences played a role in the sandwich’s development.
The Influence of Jewish Delicatessens
Corned beef and rye bread are staples of Jewish delicatessens. It’s conceivable that the Reuben evolved from existing corned beef sandwiches, with the addition of sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing providing a unique twist. Jewish delis in both New York and other major cities served as incubators for many iconic sandwiches, and the Reuben could have been a natural progression.
The Development of Russian/Thousand Island Dressing
The presence of Russian (or Thousand Island) dressing is essential to the Reuben’s character. The origins of this dressing are also debated, with various claims and regional variations. Regardless of its precise origin, the widespread availability of Russian dressing during the early to mid-20th century likely contributed to the Reuben’s popularity. The dressing provided a crucial element of tangy sweetness that balanced the richness of the corned beef and cheese, making it a key component of the sandwich’s appeal.
The Enduring Appeal of the Reuben Sandwich
Regardless of its precise origin, the Reuben sandwich has undeniably become a culinary icon. Its unique combination of flavors and textures, from the savory corned beef to the tangy sauerkraut and creamy dressing, creates a satisfying and memorable eating experience.
A Perfect Balance of Flavors and Textures
The Reuben’s success lies in its masterful balance of contrasting elements. The salty, savory corned beef is perfectly complemented by the sour, fermented sauerkraut. The creamy Swiss cheese adds richness and texture, while the Russian dressing provides a sweet and tangy counterpoint. The grilled rye bread provides a sturdy base and a satisfying crunch.
Adaptations and Variations
The Reuben’s versatility has also contributed to its enduring appeal. While the classic recipe remains the gold standard, numerous variations have emerged over the years. Some restaurants experiment with different types of bread, cheeses, or dressings. Vegetarian versions, using ingredients like tempeh or portobello mushrooms in place of corned beef, have also gained popularity.
A Symbol of Culinary History
The Reuben sandwich, with its contested origins and enduring popularity, serves as a reminder that food history is often complex and multifaceted. The stories surrounding its creation, whether true or embellished, add to its mystique and appeal. It’s a testament to the power of food to connect us to the past, sparking debates and discussions that continue to this day. The Reuben, in its own way, is a cultural artifact, reflecting changing tastes and culinary innovations.
In conclusion, the mystery surrounding the Reuben sandwich’s name is a delicious one, filled with competing claims and regional pride. While a definitive answer may remain elusive, both the New York and Nebraska stories offer compelling narratives that contribute to the sandwich’s enduring allure. Whether it originated in a bustling New York deli or a smoky Omaha poker game, the Reuben remains a culinary masterpiece, a testament to the power of simple ingredients combined in perfect harmony. The debate is part of what makes the Reuben so appealing, a story as layered and flavorful as the sandwich itself.
What are the primary ingredients of a Reuben sandwich?
The classic Reuben sandwich consists of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing, grilled between slices of rye bread. The combination of salty corned beef, tangy sauerkraut, melted Swiss cheese, and creamy, slightly spicy dressing creates a unique flavor profile that has made it a popular choice for sandwich lovers for decades.
While variations exist, these core ingredients are what define a true Reuben. Substitutions are often viewed as deviations, creating similar but distinct sandwiches. The specific ratio of ingredients can also impact the overall taste, but the balance between the savory beef, tart sauerkraut, and rich dressing is essential.
Who is credited with inventing the Reuben sandwich, and where?
Two primary contenders lay claim to the invention of the Reuben sandwich: Arnold Reuben, owner of Reuben’s Delicatessen in New York City, and Reuben Kulakofsky (often spelled “Kulakofsky”), a grocer from Omaha, Nebraska. The New York claim states Arnold created it in 1914 for actress Marjorie Rambeau.
The Omaha claim, more widely accepted by many, attributes the sandwich to Kulakofsky, who allegedly requested a sandwich made with corned beef, Swiss cheese, and sauerkraut at the Blackstone Hotel in Omaha around 1920 during a weekly poker game. Charles Schimmel, the hotel’s owner, made it for him and put it on the menu. This version is supported by culinary historians and the Kulakofsky family.
What is Russian dressing, and how does it differ from Thousand Island dressing?
Russian dressing is a creamy, tangy sauce traditionally made with mayonnaise, chili sauce, horseradish, finely chopped pimentos, and other seasonings. It has a slightly spicy and robust flavor, which complements the other ingredients in a Reuben sandwich. Some recipes also include ingredients like Worcestershire sauce or finely diced pickles.
Thousand Island dressing, while similar, generally contains sweet pickle relish and often lacks the horseradish found in Russian dressing. This gives Thousand Island a sweeter, less spicy profile. While Thousand Island can be substituted, it will alter the overall flavor, making it less tangy and more mild compared to a Reuben with authentic Russian dressing.
What type of bread is traditionally used for a Reuben sandwich?
The traditional bread for a Reuben sandwich is rye bread, specifically a marbled or seeded rye. The rye’s slightly sour and earthy flavor provides a contrasting base for the rich and savory fillings. The bread is typically grilled or griddled with butter until golden brown and crispy, contributing to the sandwich’s overall texture and flavor.
While other types of bread can be used, rye is considered essential for an authentic Reuben experience. The robust flavor of the rye stands up well to the strong flavors of the corned beef, sauerkraut, and dressing, creating a balanced and harmonious combination.
Why is the Reuben sandwich grilled instead of served cold?
Grilling the Reuben sandwich serves several purposes. The heat melts the Swiss cheese, creating a gooey, comforting texture. It also warms the corned beef and sauerkraut, enhancing their flavors and aromas. The grilling process also toasts the rye bread, providing a satisfying crunch and preventing the sandwich from becoming soggy.
The grilling process is crucial for the Reuben’s overall appeal. It brings all the components together, melding the flavors and creating a warm, cohesive dish. A cold Reuben would lack the textural contrast and the aromatic warmth that makes the grilled version so enjoyable.
Are there any popular variations of the Reuben sandwich?
Yes, several popular variations of the Reuben exist. The “Rachel” sandwich substitutes turkey for corned beef and coleslaw for sauerkraut, offering a lighter alternative. The “Georgia Reuben” uses barbecue-pulled pork instead of corned beef and often incorporates coleslaw as well.
Vegetarian versions, often called “Fake Reubens,” replace the corned beef with vegetables like marinated tempeh, seitan, or grilled portobello mushrooms. These variations aim to recreate the texture and flavor profile of the original while catering to different dietary preferences.
Is the Reuben sandwich considered a regional specialty, or is it popular nationwide?
While the Reuben sandwich may have originated in either New York or Nebraska, it is not considered strictly a regional specialty. Its popularity has spread across the United States and even internationally, making it a widely recognized and enjoyed sandwich.
You can find Reuben sandwiches on menus in diners, delis, and restaurants nationwide. Its enduring appeal stems from its unique combination of flavors and textures, making it a classic comfort food enjoyed by people from diverse backgrounds and locations.