Can You Bleach 20 Volume? A Comprehensive Guide

Many people embarking on their hair lightening journey often ask, “Can you bleach with 20 volume developer?” The short answer is yes, you can. However, the effectiveness and suitability of 20 volume developer depend on various factors, including your hair type, desired level of lift, and overall hair health. This article delves into the specifics of using 20 volume developer with bleach, exploring its benefits, limitations, and providing expert advice to help you achieve your desired results while minimizing damage.

Understanding Volume Developers: The Key to Hair Lightening

Developers, also known as hydrogen peroxide, are crucial components of the hair bleaching process. They work by opening the hair cuticle, allowing the bleach to penetrate and break down the natural melanin (pigment) in your hair. The volume number indicates the strength of the developer. A higher volume developer provides a more potent lightening effect, but also carries a greater risk of damage.

Volume developers come in various strengths, each suited for different purposes. The most common options include 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume. Understanding the differences between these strengths is essential for choosing the right one for your hair and desired outcome.

20 Volume Developer: A Gentle Option?

20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide. It offers a moderate lift, typically lifting hair one to two levels. It’s often considered a more gentle option compared to 30 or 40 volume, making it a popular choice for those with delicate or previously damaged hair. However, “gentle” is relative, and proper application and monitoring are still crucial.

Benefits of Using 20 Volume with Bleach

There are several reasons why you might choose 20 volume developer for your bleaching process:

Reduced Damage: Compared to higher volume developers, 20 volume causes less damage to the hair shaft. This is because it lifts the hair more slowly, reducing the risk of over-processing and breakage. This makes it ideal for individuals concerned about maintaining hair health.

Gradual Lightening: The slower lifting process allows for more control over the final result. You can monitor the lightening progress closely and stop the process when you achieve your desired shade. This is particularly beneficial when subtle lightening or maintaining the integrity of the hair is crucial.

Suitable for Fine or Damaged Hair: 20 volume is generally recommended for individuals with fine, thin, or already damaged hair. The lower strength minimizes the risk of further weakening the hair structure.

Ideal for Root Touch-Ups: Because it lifts gently, 20 volume is often a good choice for root touch-ups, especially when trying to match previously bleached hair. The controlled lift helps prevent banding or hot roots.

Limitations of Using 20 Volume with Bleach

Despite its benefits, 20 volume developer isn’t always the best choice. There are certain situations where it may not be effective enough to achieve your desired results:

Limited Lifting Power: 20 volume is not ideal if you want to achieve a significant color change, such as going from dark brown to platinum blonde. It simply doesn’t have the lifting power necessary to remove multiple layers of pigment.

May Require Multiple Sessions: If you’re starting with very dark hair and aiming for a lighter shade, you may need multiple bleaching sessions with 20 volume. This can be time-consuming and may still cause cumulative damage over time. It’s crucial to space out these sessions and prioritize hair conditioning in between.

Ineffective on Resistant Hair: Some individuals have hair that is naturally resistant to lightening. In these cases, 20 volume may not provide sufficient lift, even with multiple applications.

Determining if 20 Volume is Right for You

Before you decide to use 20 volume developer with bleach, consider these factors:

Your Current Hair Color: If your hair is naturally light or already pre-lightened, 20 volume might be sufficient to achieve your desired shade. However, if your hair is dark brown or black, you will likely need a stronger developer or multiple sessions.

Your Desired Shade: If you want to achieve a drastic color change, such as platinum blonde, 20 volume is probably not the right choice. For subtle highlights or a slight lightening effect, it may be suitable.

Your Hair Type and Condition: If you have fine, thin, or damaged hair, 20 volume is a safer option. However, if your hair is thick, healthy, and resistant, you may need a stronger developer.

Your Experience Level: If you are new to bleaching your hair at home, 20 volume is a good starting point. It provides more control and reduces the risk of mistakes.

How to Bleach Hair with 20 Volume: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you’ve determined that 20 volume developer is suitable for your hair, follow these steps for a safe and effective bleaching process:

1. Preparation: Gather your supplies, including bleach powder, 20 volume developer, a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, a towel to protect your clothing, and a timer. Also, perform a strand test to assess how your hair will react to the bleach mixture.

2. Mixing the Bleach: Follow the instructions on the bleach powder packaging to mix the bleach and developer in the correct ratio. Typically, this is a 1:2 ratio (one part bleach powder to two parts developer). Mix thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency.

3. Application: Apply the bleach mixture to dry, unwashed hair. Start at the roots if you’re doing a root touch-up. If you’re bleaching your entire head, start a few inches away from the scalp, as the heat from your scalp will accelerate the lightening process. Apply the mixture evenly, ensuring that all strands are saturated.

4. Processing Time: Monitor the lightening process closely. The processing time will vary depending on your hair type and desired level of lift. Check your hair every 10-15 minutes. Do not exceed the maximum recommended processing time specified on the bleach powder packaging.

5. Rinsing and Toning: Once your hair has reached the desired shade, rinse it thoroughly with cool water. Shampoo your hair with a color-safe shampoo and apply a deep conditioner or hair mask to replenish moisture. If necessary, tone your hair to neutralize any unwanted tones, such as yellow or orange.

6. Post-Bleach Care: After bleaching, it’s essential to prioritize hair care. Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners, avoid heat styling, and apply hair oils or serums to keep your hair healthy and hydrated.

Tips for Minimizing Damage When Bleaching with 20 Volume

Even with a lower volume developer, bleaching can still cause damage. Here are some tips to minimize the potential for damage:

Strand Test: Always perform a strand test before bleaching your entire head. This will help you assess how your hair will react to the bleach and determine the appropriate processing time.

Healthy Hair Base: Ensure your hair is in good condition before bleaching. Avoid bleaching if your hair is already dry, brittle, or damaged. Deep condition your hair regularly in the weeks leading up to the bleaching process.

Avoid Overlapping: When doing a root touch-up, be careful not to overlap the bleach onto previously lightened hair. Overlapping can cause breakage and damage.

Use a Bond Builder: Consider adding a bond builder, such as Olaplex or similar products, to your bleach mixture. Bond builders help protect and repair the hair’s internal structure, reducing damage during the bleaching process.

Deep Conditioning: After bleaching, deep condition your hair regularly to replenish moisture and protein. Look for products that contain ingredients like keratin, ceramides, and amino acids.

Limit Heat Styling: Avoid using heat styling tools, such as flat irons and curling irons, as much as possible after bleaching. Heat can further damage and dry out your hair.

Protect Your Hair from the Sun: Sun exposure can also damage bleached hair. Use a leave-in conditioner with UV protection or wear a hat when spending time outdoors.

When to Consult a Professional

While bleaching your hair at home can be cost-effective, it’s not always the best option. Consider consulting a professional hairstylist if:

• You have very dark hair and want to achieve a significant color change.
• You have previously damaged hair.
• You are unsure about the bleaching process.
• You have had negative experiences with bleaching your hair at home in the past.
• You want to achieve a specific shade or tone that is difficult to achieve at home.

A professional hairstylist can assess your hair type and condition, recommend the appropriate developer strength, and apply the bleach safely and effectively. They can also provide expert advice on post-bleach care to keep your hair healthy and vibrant.

In conclusion, using 20 volume developer with bleach can be a viable option for achieving subtle lightening effects while minimizing damage, especially for those with delicate or previously processed hair. However, understanding its limitations and following proper application techniques is crucial for success. When in doubt, consulting a professional is always the best course of action. Remember, healthy hair is beautiful hair!

FAQ 1: What does “bleaching with 20 volume” actually mean?

Bleaching hair with 20 volume developer refers to using a mixture of hair bleach powder and a 20 volume developer to lighten the hair’s color. The “20 volume” indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the developer, specifically 6%. This concentration affects the speed and level of lift achieved during the bleaching process. It’s a relatively gentle option compared to higher volume developers.

The process involves applying the mixture to the hair, allowing it to process for a specific time (determined by factors like hair type and desired lightness), and then rinsing and neutralizing the bleach. The 20 volume developer works by opening the hair cuticle and allowing the bleach to penetrate and dissolve the natural melanin pigments responsible for hair color. This results in a lighter shade of hair, the extent of which depends on the developer strength and processing time.

FAQ 2: What hair types are best suited for bleaching with 20 volume developer?

20 volume developer is generally best suited for individuals with fine or thin hair, as it is less damaging compared to higher volume developers. It’s also a good choice for those with hair that is already somewhat light, such as light brown or dark blonde, who are looking to achieve a subtle lightening effect or lift only a few shades. Additionally, it is often recommended for toning or refreshing previously bleached hair.

Individuals with darker hair, very thick hair, or hair that has previously been heavily processed may find that 20 volume developer does not provide sufficient lift to achieve their desired results. In these cases, a higher volume developer might be necessary, but it’s essential to prioritize hair health and consult with a professional stylist to avoid excessive damage. It is also crucial to avoid overlapping bleached areas to prevent over-processing.

FAQ 3: How much lift can I expect from using 20 volume bleach?

Typically, you can expect to achieve 1 to 2 levels of lift when bleaching with a 20 volume developer. This means that if you start with a medium brown base, you might be able to achieve a light brown or dark blonde color. However, the amount of lift can be influenced by several factors, including your hair’s natural color, texture, and overall condition. Porous hair tends to lift more quickly, while resistant hair may require more processing time or a higher volume developer.

It’s important to manage expectations, especially if you have very dark hair and desire a significantly lighter shade like platinum blonde. Achieving multiple levels of lift often requires multiple bleaching sessions, and using a lower volume developer like 20 volume over several sessions can be a less damaging approach than using a high volume developer in a single session. Consider performing a strand test to assess the lift you can achieve before applying the bleach to your entire head.

FAQ 4: How long should I leave 20 volume bleach on my hair?

The processing time for 20 volume bleach typically ranges from 15 to 45 minutes. However, it’s crucial to continuously monitor your hair throughout the process and never exceed the maximum recommended time. The exact time depends on factors like your hair’s natural color, texture, the desired level of lightness, and the specific bleach product you’re using. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions on the bleach packaging for their recommended processing times.

Regularly check the strand test and your hair during processing by wiping away a small section of the bleach mixture. If your hair has reached the desired level of lightness, or if you notice any signs of damage or excessive dryness, immediately rinse the bleach out with cool water. It’s better to under-process slightly and reapply if necessary, rather than over-process and risk severe damage. A visual assessment, alongside the manufacturer’s guidelines, will help you achieve the best results.

FAQ 5: What are the risks of bleaching with 20 volume developer?

While 20 volume developer is considered relatively gentle compared to higher volumes, there are still risks involved in bleaching, including potential damage to the hair. Over-processing can lead to dryness, brittleness, breakage, and split ends. Chemical burns to the scalp are also a possibility if the bleach mixture is applied incorrectly or left on for too long. Allergic reactions to the bleach components can occur as well, leading to irritation, itching, and redness.

To minimize risks, perform a patch test 48 hours before bleaching to check for any allergic reactions. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, avoid overlapping previously bleached areas, and use a deep conditioning treatment after bleaching to help restore moisture and strengthen the hair. It’s also advisable to consult with a professional stylist, especially if you have damaged or previously treated hair.

FAQ 6: How can I minimize damage when bleaching with 20 volume developer?

To minimize damage when bleaching with 20 volume developer, start with healthy, unwashed hair. Natural oils act as a barrier, protecting the scalp and hair shaft. Avoid washing your hair for 1-2 days before bleaching. Always perform a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach mixture and determine the appropriate processing time. Use a low and slow approach, meaning multiple sessions with a low-volume developer like 20 rather than a single session with a high-volume developer.

Invest in high-quality bleach powder and developer. Use a protein treatment a week before bleaching to strengthen your hair. During and after the bleaching process, use bond-building treatments like Olaplex or similar products to help repair and protect the hair’s structure. Deep condition your hair regularly with moisturizing masks and avoid heat styling as much as possible to prevent further damage. Use color-safe, sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to prolong your color and maintain hair health.

FAQ 7: Can I use 20 volume developer to bleach my hair at home?

Yes, you can use 20 volume developer to bleach your hair at home, but it’s essential to proceed with caution and prioritize hair health. Thoroughly research the process, watch tutorials, and understand the risks involved before you begin. Gather all the necessary supplies, including bleach powder, 20 volume developer, a mixing bowl, application brush, gloves, a timer, and a moisturizing conditioner.

If you’re unsure about any aspect of the process, it’s best to seek professional help from a qualified hair stylist. They can assess your hair’s condition, advise on the appropriate products and techniques, and ensure a safer and more successful outcome. Attempting to bleach your hair at home without adequate knowledge or preparation can result in uneven color, damage, or even hair loss. When in doubt, consult a professional.