Bleaching your hair is a significant undertaking, and one of the most crucial aspects of the process is selecting the right volume developer. The developer, also known as peroxide, activates the bleach and lifts the color from your hair. Choosing the wrong volume can lead to damage, uneven results, or even hair loss. This comprehensive guide will break down everything you need to know to choose the perfect developer for your hair bleaching journey.
Understanding Volume Developers and Their Strengths
Developer strength is measured in “volume,” which indicates the amount of oxygen released during the bleaching process. Higher volume developers release more oxygen, leading to faster and more significant lightening. However, they also come with a higher risk of damage. Lower volume developers are gentler but may require multiple applications to achieve the desired level of lift.
Different developers have distinct characteristics and are suitable for specific hair types and desired results. Here’s a breakdown of the most commonly used volumes:
- 10 Volume Developer: This is the gentlest option and is often used for depositing color, toning, or achieving a very subtle lift. It is the least damaging option.
- 20 Volume Developer: A popular choice for covering gray hair, achieving one to two levels of lift, or working with delicate hair. It is a good balance between lightening and minimizing damage.
- 30 Volume Developer: Ideal for achieving two to three levels of lift on healthy hair. It’s a common choice for going from medium brown to light brown or dark blonde.
- 40 Volume Developer: The strongest developer, capable of lifting three to four levels. It is typically used on dark hair or for achieving dramatic lightening results. This volume should be used with extreme caution as it can cause significant damage.
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Developer Volume
Selecting the correct volume developer depends on several factors, including your natural hair color, desired level of lift, hair health, and hair type.
Your Natural Hair Color and Desired Lift
The darker your starting hair color, the higher the volume developer you’ll generally need to achieve a significant lightening effect. If you have dark brown or black hair and want to go platinum blonde, you will likely need a higher volume developer, possibly 30 or 40 volume. However, this may require multiple sessions to avoid excessive damage. If your starting color is light brown or dark blonde and you only want to go a few shades lighter, a lower volume developer like 20 volume might suffice.
Hair Health and Condition
The health of your hair is paramount. If your hair is already damaged, dry, brittle, or chemically treated (permed, relaxed, or previously bleached), using a high-volume developer can lead to further breakage and damage. In such cases, it’s best to opt for a lower volume developer and consider doing multiple sessions. You may also consider using bond-building treatments such as Olaplex or similar products to help protect your hair during the bleaching process.
Hair Type and Texture
Fine hair tends to process faster than thick hair. Therefore, you may need a lower volume developer and a shorter processing time if you have fine hair. Coarse or resistant hair may require a slightly higher volume developer or a longer processing time to achieve the desired lift. Be very careful with darker or ethnic hair; it can be very sensitive to breakage and damage.
Past Hair Treatments
If your hair has been previously treated with permanent color, relaxers, or perms, it will be more susceptible to damage from bleaching. Chemical treatments alter the hair’s structure and weaken it. Using a lower volume developer and carefully monitoring the hair’s condition during the bleaching process is essential.
A Detailed Guide to Choosing the Right Volume
Choosing the right developer volume can seem complicated, but here’s a detailed breakdown to help you make the right decision:
For Subtle Lightening (1-2 Levels)
If you’re only aiming for a subtle change, such as lightening your hair by one or two shades, a 10 or 20 volume developer is your best bet. 10 volume is ideal for depositing color or toning, while 20 volume offers a gentle lift with minimal damage.
- Ideal Scenarios: Adding highlights to light brown hair, covering gray hair, refreshing faded color, toning bleached hair.
- Benefits: Minimal damage, gentle on the hair, less risk of over-processing.
- Considerations: May not be sufficient for significant lightening, multiple applications might be needed.
For Moderate Lightening (2-3 Levels)
For a more noticeable change, such as going from medium brown to light brown or dark blonde, a 30 volume developer is generally recommended. This volume provides a good balance between lightening and minimizing damage.
- Ideal Scenarios: Lightening medium brown hair, achieving a noticeable blonde shade, creating a balayage effect.
- Benefits: Achieves a significant lift in a single session, relatively less damaging than higher volumes.
- Considerations: Requires careful monitoring to avoid over-processing, may not be suitable for very damaged hair.
For Significant Lightening (3-4 Levels or More)
If you have dark brown or black hair and want to achieve a significantly lighter shade, such as platinum blonde, you may need a 40 volume developer. However, this should be used with extreme caution and only on healthy, strong hair.
- Ideal Scenarios: Transforming dark hair to a very light blonde, achieving a dramatic color change.
- Benefits: Provides the most significant lift in a single session.
- Considerations: High risk of damage, requires careful monitoring and expertise, may need multiple sessions with lower volumes to minimize damage. It is not recommended for at-home use.
The Importance of Strand Tests
Before applying bleach to your entire head, always perform a strand test. This involves applying the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to see how it reacts. This will help you determine the processing time and the level of lift you can achieve without causing excessive damage.
How to Perform a Strand Test
- Prepare the bleach mixture according to the manufacturer’s instructions, using the chosen volume developer.
- Select a small section of hair, preferably at the nape of your neck or behind your ear.
- Apply the bleach mixture to the strand, ensuring it’s fully saturated.
- Check the strand every 5-10 minutes to monitor the lightening process.
- Once the strand has reached the desired level of lift, rinse thoroughly and dry.
- Assess the condition of the strand. If it feels damaged or brittle, consider using a lower volume developer or shortening the processing time.
Tips for Minimizing Damage During Bleaching
Bleaching inevitably causes some damage to the hair, but there are several steps you can take to minimize it:
- Use Bond-Building Treatments: Products like Olaplex, Virtue Labs, or Redken pH Bonder can help protect your hair during the bleaching process by repairing broken bonds.
- Deep Condition Regularly: After bleaching, deep condition your hair regularly to replenish moisture and protein.
- Avoid Heat Styling: Minimize the use of heat styling tools like flat irons and curling irons, as they can further damage bleached hair.
- Use a Low-Heat Setting: When you do use heat styling tools, use the lowest heat setting possible.
- Protect Your Hair from the Sun: UV rays can damage bleached hair, so protect it with a hat or UV-protectant spray when spending time outdoors.
- Don’t Overlap Bleach: Only apply bleach to the new growth, avoid overlapping onto previously bleached hair, as this can cause breakage.
Choosing the Right Developer Brand
Many reputable brands offer developers with varying strengths and formulations. Some popular choices include Wella, L’Oréal, Schwarzkopf, and Redken. Research different brands and read reviews to find one that suits your hair type and needs. Some developers are cream-based, while others are liquid. Cream developers tend to be easier to apply and control, while liquid developers may offer faster processing.
Understanding Toners
After bleaching your hair, you may need to use a toner to neutralize any unwanted brassy or yellow tones. Toners contain pigments that counteract these unwanted hues, leaving you with a more even and natural-looking color. 10 volume developer is typically used with toners.
When to Seek Professional Help
If you’re unsure about which volume developer to use or if you have damaged or chemically treated hair, it’s best to consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best approach for achieving your desired results while minimizing damage. Trying to bleach your hair at home when you’re not confident can lead to costly and potentially damaging mistakes.
In Conclusion
Choosing the right volume developer is crucial for a successful hair bleaching experience. By understanding the different volumes, considering your hair type and condition, and following the tips outlined in this guide, you can achieve your desired results while minimizing damage. Remember to always prioritize the health of your hair and when in doubt, seek professional help.
What is developer volume, and how does it affect the bleaching process?
Developer volume, often expressed as a number followed by “vol” (e.g., 10 vol, 20 vol), indicates the strength or concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the product. Higher volume developers release more oxygen, lifting color faster and providing more significant lightening. The choice of volume directly impacts the speed and intensity of the bleaching process.
Using too high of a volume developer can damage the hair, leading to breakage, dryness, and an uneven color result. Conversely, using too low of a volume might not lift enough color, requiring multiple applications and potentially causing more damage over time due to repeated processing. Selecting the appropriate developer volume is crucial for achieving the desired level of lightness while minimizing harm to your hair.
How do I choose the right developer volume for my hair type and desired level of lift?
The ideal developer volume depends largely on your natural hair color, the current condition of your hair, and the level of lightness you aim to achieve. For fine or damaged hair, or for subtle lightening of only a shade or two, a lower volume developer like 10 or 20 vol is generally recommended. These volumes lift gently and are less likely to cause significant damage.
For darker hair colors or for achieving a more dramatic lightening of several shades, a higher volume developer such as 30 or 40 vol might be necessary. However, these volumes should be used with caution, especially on previously treated or fragile hair. It is always advisable to strand test a small section of hair first to assess how your hair reacts to the chosen developer volume and bleach mixture.
What is a strand test, and why is it important when bleaching hair?
A strand test involves applying the bleach and developer mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair before applying it to your entire head. This test allows you to preview the color outcome and assess how your hair will react to the chemicals without risking widespread damage. It’s a crucial step in ensuring a successful and safe bleaching process.
The strand test helps you determine if the chosen developer volume is appropriate for achieving your desired level of lift without causing excessive damage. It also reveals any potential allergic reactions or unexpected color results. By observing the strand test, you can adjust the developer volume, processing time, or even the bleach brand before committing to a full-head application.
Can I mix different developer volumes to achieve a specific lift?
While it might seem like a good way to customize the lift, mixing different developer volumes is generally not recommended. The chemical reaction of hydrogen peroxide is designed for specific concentrations, and combining different volumes can lead to unpredictable results and potentially unstable mixtures. This instability can compromise the lightening process and even cause harm to your hair.
Instead of mixing developer volumes, it’s better to choose a single volume that is appropriate for your hair type and desired level of lift, as determined through a strand test. If you are unsure, it’s always safer to opt for a lower volume and process for a longer duration, closely monitoring the results. Working with a professional colorist is the safest option for complex lightening scenarios.
How long should I leave the bleach mixture on my hair, and how does developer volume affect processing time?
The processing time for bleach varies depending on the developer volume, your hair type, and the desired level of lift. Higher volume developers lift color faster, so the processing time will be shorter. Lower volume developers require longer processing times to achieve the same level of lift. Regular monitoring of your hair’s progress during processing is crucial.
Over-processing can lead to significant damage, while under-processing might not achieve the desired lightness. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the bleach and developer you are using. Visually check your hair every few minutes to assess the color change and stop the process as soon as you reach your target shade, even if the recommended time hasn’t elapsed.
What are the risks of using too high of a developer volume?
Using a developer with too high a volume can lead to severe damage to your hair. The rapid and aggressive lightening process can weaken the hair shaft, causing breakage, split ends, and excessive dryness. This damage can be irreversible and may require extensive hair treatments or even cutting off damaged portions.
Besides physical damage, using too high a volume developer can also result in uneven or patchy color results. The bleach may lift the color unevenly, leading to hot roots or bands of different shades. In extreme cases, it can even cause chemical burns on the scalp. Always prioritize the health of your hair by choosing the lowest effective developer volume.
What aftercare is recommended after bleaching my hair, regardless of the developer volume used?
After bleaching, regardless of the developer volume used, your hair will be more fragile and susceptible to damage. Implementing a thorough aftercare routine is essential for restoring moisture, strengthening the hair, and maintaining color vibrancy. This includes using a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask at least once a week to replenish lost moisture.
In addition to deep conditioning, use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for color-treated hair. Minimize heat styling, as heat can further dry out and damage bleached hair. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray. Consider using leave-in conditioners or hair oils to provide continuous hydration and protection throughout the day.
Alden Pierce is a passionate home cook and the creator of Cooking Again. He loves sharing easy recipes, practical cooking tips, and honest kitchen gear reviews to help others enjoy cooking with confidence and creativity. When he’s not in the kitchen, Alden enjoys exploring new cuisines and finding inspiration in everyday meals.